All you people that take pictures of your models (i.e. Stitch, Tiger, thatguyjames, etc) that are crystal clear and not fuzzy at all...what kinds of cameras are you using? If digital, what pixel level/kind/lens?
Looking into acquiring a new digital camera, but I don't want to buy one that can't take a decent picture of my painted models!
Full Version: I'm curious...
All I have is an HP 5.0 Megapixel camera I got for my wife about 3-4 years ago. Not the greatest camera, but it works. I also think it is the environment of the picture too, like lighting, flash, etc.
Look for a one with a good Macro function. It allows you to take pictures up close and personal. I think you can find a good one with a good macro function for around $100 or so....I think. I haven't researched them lately, but I read something like that on another forum...
Good luck in your hunt!
Look for a one with a good Macro function. It allows you to take pictures up close and personal. I think you can find a good one with a good macro function for around $100 or so....I think. I haven't researched them lately, but I read something like that on another forum...
Good luck in your hunt!
I'm using a Canon Ixus 95 IS - 10MP with ludicrously good macro (it can focus on things around 1" away). Cost me $380Au.
I just went into the camera shop and said "I need a camera with good macro", tried a couple out and this was the easiest to use.
I just went into the camera shop and said "I need a camera with good macro", tried a couple out and this was the easiest to use.
i use a canon A640 and love it.
Yup, a macro function is the one you need.
After that you want good lighting, and Kurgan should be along shortly to discuss all of the ins-and-outs in much better detail than I can. Basically, natural light tends to be better than artificial. You also want light coming from several different angles to minimize shadows. Having a light colored backdrop behind the model to show contrasts will help--you don't want the model to blend in with the background.
Be careful though. Sometimes a really good picture ends up showing all of your flaws.
That tends to be my problem.
After that you want good lighting, and Kurgan should be along shortly to discuss all of the ins-and-outs in much better detail than I can. Basically, natural light tends to be better than artificial. You also want light coming from several different angles to minimize shadows. Having a light colored backdrop behind the model to show contrasts will help--you don't want the model to blend in with the background.
Be careful though. Sometimes a really good picture ends up showing all of your flaws.
That tends to be my problem.
lol! Even if it DID show my flaws...its more than I got right now! Thanks for the help everyone. 
This topic might be a good place for a Sticky.
1. Camera. I was using an inexpensive digital camera 8 years ago, and still mangaing to make very good pictures. Don't feel that you need to spend a lot of money on a camera, or get an SLR instead of a simple point-and-shoot digital. What you really need to do is learn how the camera you have works, read teh manual, experiment, take your time, be patient. One feature about it that was great was I could hook the cheapo camera to teh PC, see the picture quality, then take the picture. Every camera will be different, and the software it comes, ot the program on your PC with usually has soemthign to do with that ability.
Macro is generally standard on any point-and-shoot digital camera, but even if it isn't on your digital camera, it's not a showstopper. Generally if you're wwithin 3"-6", you can focus with macro, but without macro, you can still get a detailed focused picture from 12" away.
IF you must dump a ton of cash on a camera, don't worry so much about megpixels, 10 is about standard, and more than enough for what you have in mind. YOu need to find out who made the lens, because 20Mp won't look that great if it's being taken through a cheap plasitc or poorly ground glass lens. Get one that can me programmed for shutter speed and parture settungs, and a self-timer, so you don't have to hoold the buttn down while taking the picture.
2. How the camera works: What you need is some kind of manual/programmable setting where you can choose Aperture (fStop) over Shutter speed (Time). The higher number fStop, the more you will have in focus. The trade off is that the higher the fStop, the longer teh time the shutter must be open. That will cause blurring , which brngs me to my next "must-have":
3. Tripod. For as little at $7 you can get a decent tripod with or without a ball head (360 degrees of movement with ball haed, generally, but not necessary). A tripod, when used with the hands-offself timer, will allow the camera to be rocksteady when taking the picture, allwoing you to select the highest fStop. failing a tripod, set the camera on a stable surface. ot hand held.
4. Lighting I use several cheap cone-shped desk lamps from any dpet. store that can be clamped to a desk bent to put the light where I need it.
"Daylght" bulbs are the best choice, but any "globe" bulbs will do, between 40 and 60 watts. Avoif the trendy flouresecent pigtail bulbs, the color balance is usually not as good with those.
I use thin wax paper, or translucent plastic (coffee can lids, plastic drinking cups) between the lgiht source and the minature as a diffuser. It minimizes bright reflections off high spots of the minis surface.
I use a neutral background and flooring for the minis, light gray/off white, but that's really up to you.
I use glossy white paper (usually from packaging materail the lamps came in) as reflectors to bounce the light from the overhead sources onto the lower parts of the miniature.
I DON"T RECOMMEND USING THE FLASH! For various reasons, the flash will wash out you detail work, and smetimes go right through your highlighting paint to the base beneath. Also, camera have default setting for flashes, and that usually disregards all the effort you put into the lighint in he first palce.
I hope this helps. I
m sure I made it sound more complex than it is, but it really takes very little time to do properly
Look at Amazon, Consumer Reports, and various photo sites for camera recommendations.
1. Camera. I was using an inexpensive digital camera 8 years ago, and still mangaing to make very good pictures. Don't feel that you need to spend a lot of money on a camera, or get an SLR instead of a simple point-and-shoot digital. What you really need to do is learn how the camera you have works, read teh manual, experiment, take your time, be patient. One feature about it that was great was I could hook the cheapo camera to teh PC, see the picture quality, then take the picture. Every camera will be different, and the software it comes, ot the program on your PC with usually has soemthign to do with that ability.
Macro is generally standard on any point-and-shoot digital camera, but even if it isn't on your digital camera, it's not a showstopper. Generally if you're wwithin 3"-6", you can focus with macro, but without macro, you can still get a detailed focused picture from 12" away.
IF you must dump a ton of cash on a camera, don't worry so much about megpixels, 10 is about standard, and more than enough for what you have in mind. YOu need to find out who made the lens, because 20Mp won't look that great if it's being taken through a cheap plasitc or poorly ground glass lens. Get one that can me programmed for shutter speed and parture settungs, and a self-timer, so you don't have to hoold the buttn down while taking the picture.
2. How the camera works: What you need is some kind of manual/programmable setting where you can choose Aperture (fStop) over Shutter speed (Time). The higher number fStop, the more you will have in focus. The trade off is that the higher the fStop, the longer teh time the shutter must be open. That will cause blurring , which brngs me to my next "must-have":
3. Tripod. For as little at $7 you can get a decent tripod with or without a ball head (360 degrees of movement with ball haed, generally, but not necessary). A tripod, when used with the hands-offself timer, will allow the camera to be rocksteady when taking the picture, allwoing you to select the highest fStop. failing a tripod, set the camera on a stable surface. ot hand held.
4. Lighting I use several cheap cone-shped desk lamps from any dpet. store that can be clamped to a desk bent to put the light where I need it.
"Daylght" bulbs are the best choice, but any "globe" bulbs will do, between 40 and 60 watts. Avoif the trendy flouresecent pigtail bulbs, the color balance is usually not as good with those.
I use thin wax paper, or translucent plastic (coffee can lids, plastic drinking cups) between the lgiht source and the minature as a diffuser. It minimizes bright reflections off high spots of the minis surface.
I use a neutral background and flooring for the minis, light gray/off white, but that's really up to you.
I use glossy white paper (usually from packaging materail the lamps came in) as reflectors to bounce the light from the overhead sources onto the lower parts of the miniature.
I DON"T RECOMMEND USING THE FLASH! For various reasons, the flash will wash out you detail work, and smetimes go right through your highlighting paint to the base beneath. Also, camera have default setting for flashes, and that usually disregards all the effort you put into the lighint in he first palce.
I hope this helps. I
m sure I made it sound more complex than it is, but it really takes very little time to do properly
Look at Amazon, Consumer Reports, and various photo sites for camera recommendations.
I get by with a 6 meg camera. Caso Exslim I think, basic model bought from Asda (think Wal Mart, but English). It's got a very good macro though, pics come out something like this:
Tank: I hear ya
Tank: I hear ya
Wow, Tank, that's a very helpful post.
My $0.03:
1. I use natural daylight with the miniature on the window sill. Pick a day when it's not too sunny but not too cloudy either. If the colors are not quite what they should be, check the white balance in the menu and choose the one that corresponds to the type of light that day.
2. Check your ISO. Most point-and-shoot cameras would give you pictures with lots of grainy color noise at ISO 800 or higher. Use a tripod (as Tank suggested) and take the ISO down to 200 or even 100.
3. If you're buying a camera, instead of looking for megapixel count, look for one with a maximum aperture of f/2.8, i.e. in the jumble of numbers "6.2-18.6mm 1:2.8-4.9", the maximum aperture is the number after the "1:".
I use a Nikon D50 with a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens, but on a day with good light, my 3-year-old Canon SD1000 performs just as well as the Nikon.
My $0.03:
1. I use natural daylight with the miniature on the window sill. Pick a day when it's not too sunny but not too cloudy either. If the colors are not quite what they should be, check the white balance in the menu and choose the one that corresponds to the type of light that day.
2. Check your ISO. Most point-and-shoot cameras would give you pictures with lots of grainy color noise at ISO 800 or higher. Use a tripod (as Tank suggested) and take the ISO down to 200 or even 100.
3. If you're buying a camera, instead of looking for megapixel count, look for one with a maximum aperture of f/2.8, i.e. in the jumble of numbers "6.2-18.6mm 1:2.8-4.9", the maximum aperture is the number after the "1:".
I use a Nikon D50 with a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens, but on a day with good light, my 3-year-old Canon SD1000 performs just as well as the Nikon.
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